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Archive for March, 2011

Monitor Critical Natural Events And Warnings With Disaster Alert

Application Name: Disaster Alert

Description: Plots current global disasters and warnings, brings up links for more info.

Publisher’s website: Pacific Disaster Center

Cost: Free

Version/date reviewed: v.1.1  /  3-28-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

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Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


The Pacific Disaster Center’s Disaster Alert app plots the position of current natural/manmade disasters and conditions of concern for the entire world. Events plotted include:

  • Hurricane/Tropical Cyclone (global)
  • Drought (global)
  • Earthquake (global)
  • Flood (global)
  • National Weather Service High Surf (for Hawaii)
  • National Weather Service High Wind (for Hawaii)
  • National Weather Service Flood (for Hawaii)
  • Manmade (global)
  • Marine (global)
  • Storm (global)
  • Tsunami (global)
  • Volcano (global)
  • Nuclear disasters (like the current Japanese power plant situation)

With wildfires coming soon.

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Initial view is of the Western Hemisphere, with locations of concern plotted with icons. Pressing the icon at lower left zooms out to worldwide view …

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This is a standard Google Maps view, so +/- controls will appear if you tap on the screen; you can also pinch to zoom if supported on your phone. The other icon at the bottom right brings up a control to switch between Google Maps’ aerial hybrid view, and the standard road map view.

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Once zoomed in, I thought that a tap or long-press would bring up more info – no dice. Finally tried a double-tap, and that brought up a pop-up info box for that icon. But sometimes a single tap will work, and a double-tap won’t; the program seems to be very sensitive to how and where you tap.

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The info box contains basic info; tap anywhere else on the screen to get rid of it (don’t press the Back button, as this just zooms the map out to full world extent). Clicking on the blue arrow at right takes you to web page with more info …

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… usually an official government source (here, the Smithsonian Global Volcanic Activity Report), but it varies.

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From the menu, you can also bring up a list of all current disasters/warnings, with links to more info. A Time Zone setting lets you configure the alerts to show both your local time, and Universal Time (UTC, aka Greenwich Mean Time).

Other issues: The app was incredibly slow and responsive the first time I started it, but speeded up subsequently; I’m guessing it had to do some kind of initialization. You cannot exit the program with the Back button on the phone; you have to use the Exit option from the menu, or the Home key.

Final thoughts: Handy tool for keeping track of the world’s state, despite some minor quirks.




Map Point Slopes And Directions With Rocklogger

Application Name: Rocklogger

Description: Map slopes and which direction they’re facing.

Publisher’s website: RockGecko

Cost: Free evaluation version limits you to 3 measurements every two minutes; $9.22 fee unlocks this restriction.

Version/date reviewed: v.1.01  /  3-27-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

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Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


A while back, I reviewed eGeo Compass, an app that maps slope and slope direction. The primary use is for geological mapping, but it could be used by anyone who has similar mapping needs (geomorphologists, archaeologists, gardeners, etc.). I thought eGeo Compass was pretty good, but the demo version was limited in functionality, and the registered version was a bit expensive at $13. Rocklogger offers the same basic functionality, the free version does more, and the registered version is cheaper, but it has some drawbacks as well.

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App starts with the barest of screens. Tapping on Start new traverse brings up the option to name the data file, and also associate additional information. Unlike eGeo Compass, the free version of Rocklogger will let you export data in CSV format for use in mapping programs. If you’ve already stored a data file, you can also select it, and append new data points.

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In measurement mode, the app will fire up the GPS to get your current position, and then display your current coordinates, along with your choice of three kinds of measured data:

  • Dip angle and direction: The slope in degrees, and the compass direction of that slope (you can choose true or magnetic direction)
  • Dip/strike: Commonly used in geological mapping. Dip is as above, but strike represents the orientation at which a geological strata intersects the ground surface; usually it’s 90 degrees less than the dip direction.
  • Magnetic field mode: Measures and records the magnetic magnitude vectors (XYZ), and the absolute magnitude

When you’re ready to make a measurement, lay the phone on the surface you want to measure, oriented so that the long axis of the phone (up/down) lies along the steepest slope).

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Tapping on the Plane Type dropdown brings up a preprogrammed list of geological features you can assign to the point. However, you can add your own types (including non-geological ones), and subtract ones currently on the list, customizing it to your own requirements. The Settings section lets you reset this to the default. The Setttings section also implies that the app can save Rock Type input and let you choose from suggestions, but I couldn’t get that to work, possibly because I’m not using the default Android keyboard.

Pressing the Save incl. sensors button saves your current position and the measured data into the current data file; Save excl. sensors saves only your current position. You can set the app to require a long press to save data, to prevent accidental data recording. The evaluation version limits you to no more than three measurements in two minutes; the registered version allows unlimited measurements within any time frame.

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Use the Back button to stop measuring, and bring you back to the startup screen; there now should be a listing for the new data file. Tapping the listing for that file name brings up the option to add more points, delete it, email it (useful for backup in the field, or exporting it to your computer for additional analysis), or open it in a compatible app for viewing/editing.

Other issues: Unlike eGeo, Rocklogger doesn’t currently have the option in either the free or paid version to plot recorded data in a Google Maps view, though the author indicates this is coming. Having latitude/longitude displayed in degree-minute-seconds, without the option to view it in decimal degrees, is annoying; fortunately, positions are saved in decimal degrees in the data file.

The biggest issue for me is that, unlike eGeo,  you have to have the phone aligned so that its long axis lies along the direction of steepest slope, in order to get an accurate measurement. The app really needs to be set up so that it will automatically determine the direction and magnitude of steepest slope automatically, regardless of which way the phone is laid on the surface; that would not only improve accuracy, but speed up measurement time. I’ll monitor the app to see if this is implemented.

Final thoughts: I started out biased towards Rocklogger because its evaluation version allows data recording and export; you need eGeo Compass’s registered version to enable that. I do like the additional recording options, and multiple data inputs, especially the customizable dropdown. And unlike eGeo, you have the option to record the true direction, not just magnetic. But Rocklogger’s requirement that you have the phone oriented along the direction of steepest slope is a dealbreaker for me; it reduces accuracy, and slows down the overall recording time. If this were fixed, I’d give the edge to Rocklogger; but as is, eGeo Compass is currently the better app.




Simultaneous Large Compass View and Map With Urban Scout

Application Name: Urban Scout

Description: Displays large compass view along with Google Maps display

Publisher’s website: Cogi Systems

Cost: Free

Version/date reviewed: v.1.9  /  3-25-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

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Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


Lots of apps have a large compass display, invariably filling the whole screen (like the excellent Compass app). Other apps can show your general compass direction, sometimes with a small position arrow pointing the same way as your phone (e.g. the standard Google Maps app). Urban Scout is a simple app that combines the two: half the screen shows a large, standard compass (with numerical heading display), while the other half shows a Google Maps view.

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You have the choice of either a Google Map satellite hybrid view (with roads labeled), or the standard Google Maps roads-only display. The compass at the top shows true north, not magnetic; wish all app makers defaulted to that. Your phone’s GPS will fire up automatically, locating you on the map. The red triangle position marker will be pointed in the same direction your phone is facing, with the faint yellow circle overlay showing the uncertainty in position.

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From the menu, you can mark a single position with a blue dot; mark a new position, and the previous marked position disappears. No other functions, like navigation, but it will remember the marked position. You can scroll the map to a different location, but it will slowly scroll back center your current position in the map display. Standard zoom controls (pinch to zoom where supported, otherwise +/- buttons that appear when you tap on the map.

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Not a lot in terms of options from Menu/Settings. Toggle between the Satellite Hybrid and Maps mode, and set the default; mark your location; set units (English or metric); turn off the coordinate display bar in between the compass and map to show more of the map (as above).

Other issues: Wish it showed decimal degrees for latitude/longitude; I hate degrees/minutes/seconds.

Final thoughts: Simple limited app, but does the job. I like using it to get a rough feeling for which direction from my current location a landmark lies. One could always wish for additional functions (waypoint marking, navigation), but you can always get those from other apps.




Locus, A GPS Mapping Application – Part III: Tracks, Waypoints And Miscellaneous

The final part of my review of the Locus map app for Android; here are links to Part I: Interface, and Part II: Maps.

The first thing you need to know about waypoints in Locus is that the program insists you assign them into named Categories; especially noticeable the first time you try to create one. I resented this initially, but have since decided that requiring this kind of categorization/organization is a really good idea. Waypoints can be added using the Points manager, normally accessible in the right toolbar.

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After choosing a Category, you get the waypoint list for that category, along with additional options at the bottom. From left to right, they are:

  • “+” – Create a new waypoint. You’ll be given the choice of your current location, the current map center, an address, coordinates, or (if you have the optional Locus Contacts free plugin), one of the contacts in your address book. Tip: If you want to use map center, you should turn off the “center map on GPS location” button (left button on bottom toolbar), otherwise the map can pop back to your current location. Then scroll to the location you want to place the waypoint, and bring up the Points manager.
  • Check mark – Selects/deselects all waypoints. Checked waypoints are visible on the map, unchecked waypoints aren’t. You can also turn on/off individual waypoint display by tapping directly on the checkbox.
  • Arrowed circle – Refreshes the list
  • Boxes with down arrow – Sorts the waypoint list by name or distance from your current location
  • “Grouped” boxes – Lets you filter waypoints by icon
  • Trash can – Deletes selected waypoints

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Tapping on a waypoint brings up more options:

  • Plot it on a map
  • Navigate to it
  • Edit/delete it
  • Send it to a navigation app (like Google’s Navigation); bring up the Google Street View if available; share it with compatible app; load it into either Locus’s built-in compass, or a compatible third-party app like GPS Status.

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When you add a waypoint with the “+” control, you’re only given the option to name it (default is coordinates). But once recorded, you can go back and assign additional info to the waypoint, including standard stuff like a description and custom icon; plus,  non-standard stuff like taking a photo at that location and assigning it to the waypoint, or reverse-geocoding the nearest address based on the waypoint’s coordinates. Not sure how well the Photo feature works – on at least one occasion, a photo seemed to become “disassociated” with its waypoint (may have just been a random glitch). Reverse geocoding, on the other hand, worked perfectly, though this will require an active data connection. You’ll get the same screen when you edit an existing waypoint.

 

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There’s a reasonably healthy default choice of icon graphics, but the app author describes a simple process by which you can use your own icon graphics for waypoints.

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Finally, the author has recently added an augmented reality (AR) plugin that will superimpose a waypoints name/icon and “radar screen” on your Android unit’s camera view. My screenshot utility doesn’t capture the camera view, but just imagine a real-world view substituted for the white above. The radar screen shows the waypoint, but it’s so small and indistinct that it’s difficult to pick out. The Free version limits you to one minute of AR view; the $5.50 Pro version makes this unlimited.

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For tracks, you have two options: either record your current movements as a track, or draw a track on the map screen. Both options are accessible from the right toolbar. If you choose to record your movements as a track, you’ll get a new toolbar at the bottom that lets you Start/Pause/Stop track recording …

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or pull up an info window with current track statistics.

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By default, tracks are saved with the current date and time, and there’s no way to change that immediately. However, if you go to the Data manager above (accessible from the top toolbar), you’ll be given the option to manage/edit your tracks. This Data manager also lets you create/edit/delete categories, gives you direct access to the Point manager for handling waypoints, and lets you Import/Export data in GPX or KML format. If you choose Tracks …

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You’ll get a list of all the tracks stored in the app. Unlike waypoints, tracks aren’t assigned to a mandatory user-definable category, but are instead assigned a Locus-specific category that you can change. The controls at the bottom are the same as for waypoints, except for the missing “Add” option, not relevant here. Checking/unchecking a track determines whether it’s visible or not on the map display. Tapping on a track name brings up options to show a stats screen, export it directly as a GPX or KML file, show it on the map, delete it, or edit it …

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One of the biggest advantages of Locus over OruxMaps is the customizability of waypoint icons and track colors. OruxMaps only has one waypoint icon, and while you can adjust the overall track color and width, you can’t specify different colors/widths for different tracks. Locus starts out with more waypoint icons, lets you add your own …

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and also lets you specify different colors and widths for individual tracks, making them easier to identify on-screen.

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The right toolbar also has an “Add track” button that lets you draw a track on screen, and then save it. Pressing this button brings up another toolbar to help with this function. The “+” button adds a track point at the current center map position, and the “-“ button removes the last track point added; the green check finishes the process and saves the track, while the red “x” aborts it. The center button, with the “right turn” logo, is interesting. If you specify two points on a track, the start and stop, then press this button …

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… you’ll be given the option to automatically generate a routed track between those two points, for various forms of transportation. When you choose the desired transport …

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You’ll see the route plotted, along with the direct-line connecting the start/stop; saving the track will only save the routed track, not the direct line.

Other issues: Apart from an occasionally-stubborn Bluetooth GPS connection, which could be resolved (see Part I), didn’t have any serious problems with the app.

Final thoughts: There’s no question that Locus is an outstanding Android map app. It works as it should, the interface is clean, map selection is good, and feature set is solid. In some aspects, like track/waypoint management, it’s vastly superior to OruxMaps; on the flip side, OruxMaps has a more customizable interface, and it’s easier to add additional online map sources to it. The one feature where OruxMaps is clearly superior to Locus is in your ability to add your own digital map imagery for viewing in OruxMaps; this is a feature I need all the time, and one not currently well-supported in Locus. Fortunately, with free/cheap versions of both apps, I don’t have to choose; I can see myself switching back and forth between the different apps on a regular basis, depending on what my current needs are. You’d be crazy not to have at least the free version of Locus on your Android unit (OruxMaps, too), and probably ultimately coughing up the $5.50 Pro registration fee to get rid of the ads.




Locus, A GPS Mapping Application – Part II: Maps

Continuing on with my review of the Locus GPS mapping app for Android (Part I on the interface is here), today is map day. Locus has a strong selection of standard online map sources, roughly 30 vs. roughly about 20 for OruxMaps. Some are worldwide, others regional. These mapsets currently include:

  • Google Maps: Road, Aerial, Hybrid, Terrain, Korea
  • OpenStreetMap” Classic, Cycle, Transport, Osmarender, OpenPiste
  • OVI-Nokia map:Classic, Satellite, Terrain (Locus is the only app I’ve seen so far with these useful mapsets)
  • Yahoo: Classic, Satellite
  • Bing: Road, Hybrid, London A-Z, OS Maps
  • OSM-regional: UMP-pcPL, Hike&Bike
  • Freemap (Slovakia): Car, Turistic, Cyclo, Aerial
  • Yandex (East Europe): Classic, Satellite
  • Eniro (North Europe): Classic, Aerial, Nautical, Hybrid
  • MyTopo (USA): 1:24K topographic maps
  • Outdoor Active (Germany, Austria, South Tyrol)
  • Statkaart (Norway): Topo, Raster
  • Maps+ (Switzerland): Topography, Terrain
  • NearMap (Australia): PhotoMap, StreetMap, Terrain

 

While there is a reasonable amount of overlap in mapsets between the two, each one also has unique mapsets as well. For US users, the big difference is that Locus comes with the MyTopo USGS 1:24K topographic mapset built in, while OruxMaps doesn’t. You can add Terraserver topo maps to OruxMaps (more on this in a bit), but the MyTopo set is of higher quality, and some areas are more up-to-date.

 

The list of available online maps can be brought up with the map manager button, in the upper right of the main map screen. You’ll get a list of available online mapsets:

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Mapsets are organized into groups by source, a better system than OruxMaps’ sequential list of all maps. If you tap on a source name, like Google …

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… you’ll get a subset listing of all the available maps from that source. Tap on the map type to go back to the map view, and load that selected mapset. The listing scrolls horizontally, so if you can’t see the desired mapset, tap and drag the listing left or right to access it.

First time I tried using Locus in the field, I was shocked at how many mapsets I was unable to download, despite having a good cellular connection. Then I explored the Settings section; under the Map subsection of Settings, you’ll find  a setting called “Offline mode”. If this is checked, which appears to be the default, maps can only be downloaded to your unit when you have a WiFi Internet connection. This protects you from being surprised with massive data overage charges from your cellular provider if you don’t have an unlimited data plan; my plan is unlimited, so I left this unchecked, and all mapsets now downloaded properly.

As online maps are downloaded, either from a WiFi or cellular connection, they are automatically cached so that you don’t have to repeatedly download them. I presume the size of the cache is limited, and that older maps are deleted automatically, but I wasn’t able to find out this info. For longer-term storage of mapsets, and avoiding large data downloads over cellular connections, Locus lets you create mapsets from download data, and then load them as needed into the app.

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To access this function, go to the “Download map” tab in the map manager. You’ll have several options for selecting the area you want maps for:

  • This screen – Downloads maps for the area currently visible in the main map screen. You’ll want to zoom in/out first to your desired area.

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  • Select area – Choose a subset of the current map area by clicking and dragging; press on the green check button at the bottom to approve the selection, or the red x button to clear it and select a different area. You can zoom in/out in this view, but if you haven’t already selected the desired general area first, new map data will not be loaded in as you zoom in/out.
  • By state – Downloaded predefined areas. By “state”, this means “country”, not “US state” or other subregions. Fine for smaller countries at lower zoom levels, not great for larger countries.

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  • By path – This is pretty slick. Select this option, and get the map screen, with a new toolbar near the bottom. Click the “+” sign to add a point at the center of the screen, then drag the map to the next location and add another point. Locus will define an area around that point for which it will download maps, and show that as a purple overlay. You can set the width of the area with the slider at the top, and also tap-and-drag points to adjust them. The “-“ sign removes the last point, while the red x deletes all points. When done, tap the green check box. Be sure to disable the button at the lower-right, as otherwise the map will keep popping back to your current GPS location.
  • Select POIs – If you have a set of waypoints loaded into a category (more on this in the next post), Locus can use those to define an area for maps to be downloaded for. Nice, but I wish there were a comparable option for tracks as well, similar to the “By path” option, but loadable from a GPX file.

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Once you’ve made any of your area selections, you’ll get a screen with the available zoom levels for that map; you need to choose at least one. You can choose more, but it will make the map filesize larger; maximum allowable filesize is 2 GB. The total map size and tile count is shown at top right, and you’ll also see a preview of the highest zoom level maps at right. Label the mapset file using the text box at the top.

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Tapping “Change type” to choose the type/location for the downloaded map files. You can either put the map tiles into the standard online map cache, create a new separate mapset, or add maps to a pre-existing mapset of the same type. I usually use “Separate map”, since I think it will minimize complications, but that’s just a guess on my part. Once you’ve selected a map type, you go back to the zoom level screen; tapping OK starts the download process. This is usually best done with a WiFi connection, as that will be much faster, and won’t count against any cellular data quotas.

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Once complete, the new mapset will appear in a listing under the “User maps” tab; just tap on the mapset you want to select it. Generally, these maps work fine, but I sometimes noticed when scrolling the map that tiles would appear and then disappear for no discernible reason. However, when using the maps in general GPS navigation mode, this didn’t seem to be a problem.

As with OruxMaps, you can also create mapset files from online map sources with the free Mobile Atlas Creator software, setting Big Planet / RMaps SQLite as the output format; the app author has more info here.

So far, Locus is superior to OruxMaps in handling online/offline maps. But it falls short in two major areas:

- Adding new online map sources is more complicated in Locus than OruxMaps (although neither is easy). There’s a post at the Locus forum on the process, but I couldn’t find any actual working examples. In contrast, OruxMaps offers a sample wms_services.xml file to get you started, which adds Terraserver US topographic maps to the list of available maps, and the OruxMaps forum has more working examples.

- OruxMaps has a stand-alone desktop application that can convert georeferenced raster image files, like GeoTiffs and OziExplorer map files, into an OruxMaps-compatible mapset. There is no general tool like that for Locus; there’s a mention in the forum of an old utility that can convert OziExplorer map files, but the format it creates may be deprecated soon in Locus. And it doesn’t look like the utility program mapc2mapc currently creates Locus-compatible map files, either. So there isn’t currently a good way to get your own maps into a Locus-compatible format, and that’s a big drawback for me.

Coming up in part III – tracks and waypoints in Locus.




Locus, A GPS Mapping Application – Part I: Interface

Application Name: Locus Free

Description: Display online/offline maps for your position; GPS track/waypoint display and recording; compass; more.

Publisher’s website: Locus

Cost: Free ad-support version; Pro version ($5.50) removes ads, and add some minor additional functionality.

Version/date reviewed: v.0.9.28  /  3-15-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

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Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


I’ve reviewed two other apps that convert your Android unit into the functional equivalent of a handheld GPS unit. TrekBuddy I was less than overwhelmed with; OruxMaps I found to be terrific. I’ll spoil the surprise conclusion here, and say that Locus is not only closer to OruxMaps in quality than TrekBuddy, but gives OruxMaps a run for its money in some respects. In this multi-day review, I’ll compare Locus’s functionality to OruxMaps as appropriate. As with OruxMaps, Locus has so many features that I can’t cover them all, even over the next few days; look at the program’s website, and explore the Settings section, for more info on all of its functionality.

Interface:

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The basic interface for Locus has three toolbars at top, right, and bottom. Unlike OruxMaps, where all toolbars are fully customizable, only the right toolbar in Locus can be modified, and only by checking/unchecking pre-defined options. There are five functions available on the top toolbar. They are:

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- An “info” icon, which brings up links to “About application”, a simplified basic guide to using the app, an incomplete online manual viewed in your browser, the version history, and a list of additional apps that can invoke Locus as a helper app.

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- Title bar options: tapping on the title bar lets you choose what’s displayed there. In the picture below, coordinates was selected for display in the title bar. One drawback of Locus compared to OruxMaps is that the number of data fields displayed onscreen with the map is far more limited in Locus.

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- A GPS icon, which brings up the GPS status screen, with options to turn the GPS and compass on/off to conserve power.

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- A data manager, which lets you view tracks/points, import/export data (GPX/KML formats supported), and manage categories. Locus requires you to specify a category label in which to save points and tracks; while I found this annoying at first, I now see the value of forcing you to organize your data by label.

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- A map manager, for selecting and managing online/offline maps (more on this later)

 

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Access the right-toolbar options by the Android Menu button, then selecting “Set right panel”; this screen also gives you several other options, most of which can also be assigned to the right toolbar.

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The available right-toolbar functions are:

  • Search in POI: This is a saved waypoint search function; there is no general POI database in this app.
  • Move Map: Instantly move the display to an entered address or latitude/longitude.
  • Points: A waypoint list/manager (MOTL, more on this later)
  • Track record: Brings up another toolbar for recording tracks (MOTL)
  • Parking (BETA): Record your current parking spot, with options to set an alarm (useful for timed parking meters), and taking a photo of the location:

locus_park

  • Share: Lets you send the current map center coordinates, or a screenshot of the current map display, to email, Facebook, SMS, etc.
  • Add new route: Bit misnamed, as it lets you create a new track in the map display; a “route” is a sequential collection of waypoints, which Locus doesn’t seem to have support for. MOTL
  • Compass: Option to switch to compass view, which includes guide information if you’ve selected a POI/waypoint as your destination:

locus_compass

The compass has a long settling time, so it will take a few seconds for the “needle” to move to the current direction. I’d prefer the option to manually adjust this sensitivity, but it’s not too bad. What is bad is that it shows the magnetic direction, not the true direction, as OruxMaps does. I wish I could mandate that every compass app for Android  either have true direction as the only option, or have it as the default with magnetic direction as an option. For many areas, the two will be similar, but in some areas the difference is substantial; where I live, there’s an eleven-degree difference between true and magnetic directions. Hope this gets fixed in Locus in the near future. Now fixed; there’s a new Sensors menu in the Setting that lets you choose True direction (default) or magnetic, and adjust the sensitivity of the compass.

 

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The bottom toolbar has five functions. When the first button is active (as above), and the GPS is on, the map will automatically scroll to your current location. If you tap and drag the map to view a different location while this button is active, it will automatically “pop you back” to your current location in a few seconds.

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The second button is a zoom lock/unlock button. When it’s off, you can only zoom in to the native resolution of the map image (or double that, if you turn on “Double sized resolution” in Settings => Map). When it’s engaged, as above …

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… you can zoom in well past the native resolution; the above picture isn’t even at the full zoom available, since that would just look like a jumble of pixels.

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The third button lets you choose a direction option. “Rotate map” will spin the map so that the direction you’re facing, or moving in, is at the top. This mode drives me nuts as it tends to swing around wildly, so I usually leave it off.

locus_fov

“Show view” displays a “field of view” indicator when you’re standing still, as above. When you’re in motion, the view changes to a triangle/arrow that points in the direction you’re currently moving. Since Locus currently uses magnetic directions, this can be a bit off from the true field of view.

This control is also useful for restoring the map to “North at top”. In the default mode, Locus supports advanced multi-touch, which lets you rotate the map view by dragging two fingers on the screen in different directions. This also drives me nuts, as sometimes when I want to only zoom in or out, I wind up rotating the map; using this control pops the map back to a normal orientation. You can turn off advanced multi-touch in the settings section, as I have.

The toolbars are partially transparent, and fairly small, so I usually leave them all turned on. However, the Settings section allows you to set any, or all, of the toolbars to fade away after a few seconds; tap twice on the screen to make them visible again.

One final topic, peripheral to the interface. Like OruxMaps, Locus has the option to use an external Bluetooth GPS receiver to obtain position, in place of the built-in GPS receiver; this can be specified in the settings section. This has some major advantages for both battery life and position accuracy. Unlike OruxMaps, though, I was actually able to get this Bluetooth connection to work in Locus, though it took some effort. Android’s Bluetooth support is a bit flaky, and it can take multiple attempts to achieve a successful connection. If the first Bluetooth connection attempt doesn’t work, and you’ll get an error message to that effect, go to the GPS status page, and turn GPS off and then on again. It may take 3-6 attempts, but eventually you do get a working connection to your Bluetooth GPS receiver. The application can also use Bluetooth GPS via proxy apps like Bluetooth GPS, which replace the built-in GPS receiver position for all apps.

Tomorrow: A look at maps in Locus.




“Ruggedizing” Your Android Unit

Most Android units these days are standard cellphones, and while I wouldn’t call them “fragile”, they’re mostly not designed for the kind of abuse they can get when used outdoors for mapping and recording the world. The Motorola Defy was the first “rugged” Android unit, billed as water/scratch resistant and dustproof, which promptly developed hardware problems. The Casio G’zOne Android cellphone is supposedly a rugged, outdoor-capable unit, and should be available on Verizon soon. And MITAC, parent company of GPS maker Magellan, has shown a prototype rugged Android tablet designed for outdoor use. But these choices are limited, and for now most Android units are standard cellphones. So you’ll need to find some kind of add-on case that will protect them in more extreme environments from dust, water, impact and scratches.

The simplest (and cheapest) protection is a simple molded silicone rubber shell that you insert your phone into, like this one for the Droid X:

silicone

You can pay about $10 (plus shipping) for a brand-name version of these, but if you enter your phone’s name and “silicone case” into eBay’s search engine, you can find ones of comparable quality for as little as $3 shipped. These aren’t exactly high-tech, so it’s unlikely you’ll get a lot more quality by buying the brand name. These offer some impact protection, less water and dust protection, and only protect the cellphone body from scratching; the screen will still be vulnerable. Don’t believe for a second that “Gorilla Glass” or comparable high-tech glass surfaces will protect your screen from all scratches; if you don’t believe me, take a handful of sand and rub it over your phone’s screen (please don’t do this!).

I’ve used Zagg’s screen protectors in the past to keep the screens of my GPS units (Garmin 60Cx and Garmin 62s) from scratching, and they’ve worked very well for those units. The 60Cx has had its original Zagg screen protector for over 4 years now, and not only is the original glass screen intact, the screen protector is unscratched as well despite substantial abuse. So I tried a Zagg screen protector for my Droid X, and was somewhat disappointed with the results. First off, application requires liberal application of a wet spray-on solution, fine for a waterproof GPS, nerve-wracking with a non-waterproof cellphone. Secondly, it makes the screen surface feel a bit “tacky”, so that your fingers don’t slide smoothly over it; this is a real drawback for using the Android’s touchscreen interface. Finally, you can’t remove it without ruining the screen protector, although Zagg will replace any protector that is damaged for any reason, or removed because you needed to send the unit in for warranty service. I had to return my first Droid X under warranty, so I got a free replacement, but was so dissatisfied with its performance that I didn’t bother to put it back on again.

So, I moved on to the more substantial, and more expensive, option: a rugged case designed for the Droid X. There are two companies known for their rugged cellphone cases:

Both Seidio and OtterBox make similar models for many other popular Android cellphones (and the iPhone, if you’re so inclined). The most rugged cases are Seidio’s Innocase line and the OtterBox’s Defender line; less rugged case are also available. Expect to pay $30-40 for one of these models at Amazon.com, which seems a bit overpriced to me, even if you are protecting a $500 cellphone. Both Droid X cases have good reviews at Amazon; I chose the OtterBox because I’ve had good experiences with their products in the past.

The OtterBox Defender case comes in four pieces:

  • A polycarbonate case that the phone slips into
  • A polycarbonate frame with a hard plastic screen protector that snaps on to the above case to completely surround the phone
  • A silicone rubber shell that wraps around the bottom part of the case, fitting securely around the edges
  • A holster that the entire case assembly above snaps into

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Having had this case for a few months now, I can make some observations:

- Putting the case together take some practice; it’s sometimes tough to get the frame to snap on securely to the case. Taking the frame off is even more of a pain; you eventually learn that you need to squeeze the sides of the case together, and then the frame pops off fairly easily. This whole process does complicate replacing the battery in the field if you run out of power.

- I was worried that the hard plastic screen protector would interfere with touchscreen usability, but that’s not the case – it works really well, and doesn’t affect screen visibility at all. There is no protector for the camera lens, though – it’s naked (albeit recessed a bit into the case).

- The case offers excellent impact protection to your phone, and the hard plastic screen protector keeps the glass screen from being scratched. I’ve dropped the phone several times in the field on unforgiving surfaces, and not only was the phone not hurt, the case didn’t show any effects at all.

- The case offers some protection from dust, but I wouldn’t call it dustproof. And it’s definitely not waterproof, or even water-resistant; the best I would call it is “splash-resistant”. It will protect your phone from a few drops of rain, but won’t help if your phone gets immersed in water.

- The silicone rubber shell covers the four buttons at the bottom of the phone, and makes them substantially harder to push.

- The holster holds the phone very securely; any impact that would cause it to fall out would cause you bigger problems than a lost phone.

- The case substantially increases the size of the phone, and the Droid X was already a big phone. Still fit in my pants pocket, but I could tell it was bigger. I tried keeping the case on all the time, even when not using it in hostile environments, but went back to the cheap silicone shell for regular use, and only put this case on when I’m out in the field.

Bottom line: While I wish it were a bit less bulky, and a bit less expensive, I appreciate the extra protection it gives my phone in the great outdoors. If you take your phone into hostile environments, it’s highly recommended.




Blow Things Up On Your Android Unit With Magnify

Application Name: Magnify

Description: Uses your camera view and digital zoom to magnify objects; option to record view with photo.

Publisher’s website: Appd Lab

Cost: Free (ad-supported)

Version/date reviewed: v.2.2  /  3-12-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

magnify_qr
Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


I’ve tested several Android apps that take the camera input and magnify it, like Magnifying Glass, iMagnify and IDEAL Magnifier, but I’ve uninstalled all of them in favor of the app reviewed her, Magnify; it’s clearly the best of the bunch.

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My screen capture app doesn’t include the camera view; if it did, you’d see the camera input in the white area above. The four buttons, from left to right:

  • Camera icon: Takes a photo of what you can currently see in the camera view.
  • Eye icon: Re-focuses the image. The app documentation says that you need to have the camera lens at least four inches away from the object to focus. However, on my Droid X, with good lighting, I can sometimes focus even closer than that. If you move the phone towards/away from the object after focusing, you’ll need to re-focus.
  • Flash icon: If your camera has one, it turns on the LED flash to illuminate the object.
  • N icon: Converts the image to a negative; may improve detail visibility in some cases.

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On my Droid X, photos taken with the app are stored in the “Magnify” subfolder of the DCIM folder on the SD card, which is the default folder for camera pictures on my unit; may be different for your phone. The “white blob” at the bottom of the photo is glare from the LED flash illumination. One minor drawback is that the pixel size of the photo is limited; the original of the photo shown above is only 816 x 624. It would be nice to have an option to export photos at your camera’s full resolution. But this is a digital zoom, so you likely wouldn’t see any more detail.

Other issues: The ads look a bit incongruous at the bottom. But they’re well enough out of the way of the main interface to not be a major distraction, and they help keep the app free.

Final thoughts: Highly recommended; nice to be able to blow up views of small objects. Especially small type, useful for someone like me with aging eyes and reading glasses.




Map Ship Information With MarineTraffic

Application Name: MarineTraffic.Com

Description: View marine ship traffic anywhere in the world; monitor ships; get port information.

Publisher’s website: MarineTrafic

Cost: Free

Version/date reviewed: v.0.9.3  /  3-8-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

mt_qr

Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


If you live by the water, and want to know what ship is passing by, or if you’re just generally interested in matters nautical, MarineTraffic for Android is a must-have app.

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The app starts out with a default view of marine traffic in the Eastern Mediterranean, and not much else on-screen to let you know what to do next. Triangles mark ships in motion, with the “pointy” end showing which way it’s going. Large diamonds indicate anchored/moored ships, while small ones show navigation aids. The colors indicate what kind of ship/craft it is (more on this later). It’s a standard Google Maps interface, so you can pinch to zoom, and pan to different areas.

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Zoom out far enough, and you’ll find the grid areas where there’s information for ships; notice it includes Great Lakes and Mississippi River traffic information as well.

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Tap on a green grid square, and you’ll be zoomed in closer to that area. You can then zoom in closer to any desired area for more information.

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Here’s the entry to New York City’s harbor area; most of the markers are large diamonds, indicating anchored/moored ships. If you tap on the blue moving marker near the bottom …

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You’ll bring up multiple options for additional data.

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Vessel’s Details brings up full information about the vessel, including size/weight, current speed/position/course, and its schedule. If photos are available, you can view those (also available from the Show Photos option), but you can also upload a picture of your own.

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Select Show Track, and see where the ship has been recently; based on the track above, and the schedule in the Details section, I’m guessing this is a sightseeing cruise boat.  Choosing Add To My Fleet “bookmarks” the vessel so that you can find it again.

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From the app’s menu, choose Options to get a listing of vessel types and their color codes. You can choose not to show specific types by unchecking the box; additional options include displaying vessel names on the map, and switching to an aerial image instead of a map.

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The Ports menu lets you select a world port for more information. Click on the “globe” icon to go to the map view centered on that port; click on the “magnifier” to get details about the port, and recent/upcoming arrivals and departures.

Additional options on the Menu:

  • Vessels – Search for a vessel by name, then find it on the map
  • Near Me – Fires up your GPS, and shows you the view near your location. If you’re outside of a marine area, you’ll just get a black screen.
  • More – Fast access to your My Fleet bookmarks, About the app, and a quick zoom out to a World Map view.
  • Areas – General marine areas by name (e.g. Baltic Sea, Japan, Ligurian Sea, etc.). Tap on a name, and go to that area in the map view; select a green grid square to zoom in closer.

Other issues: None; no problems.

Final thoughts: Pretty much a model of what this kind of data app should be like. Obviously only for those interested in maritime traffic, but if you are, a must-have.

PS There’s an iPhone version as well, and a general mobile website; the main website is also worth a look if you’re at a computer.

HT to Goya Bauwens for alerting me to the app.




Copy Map/Data Files To And From Your Android With Wireless File Transfer Lite

Application Name: Wireless File Transfer Lite

Description: Lets you copy data files to and from your Android unit using a wireless connection and browser interface.

Publisher’s website: Lextel

Cost: Free

Version/date reviewed: v. 0.4.2a  /  3-8-11

Phone/OS: Droid X / Android 2.2

wft_qr

Android Market (mobile app only)
Android Market (browser)


If you use your Android phone regularly as a map tool, or to record data, you’ll likely need to regularly transfer data to your Android (like map files), or from your Android (photos, waypoints, tracks, etc.). This can be a real pain. I’ve covered a few ways to do this in previous posts (one, two), but I’ve recently added a new solution to my phone that, despite some limitations, is usually more convenient: Wireless File Transfer Lite.

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When you start up the program, the initial screen shows the web address you’ll need to enter to access the files; it will usually be your Android’s assigned IP address on your local network, plus a port number (8888 here). Confusingly, you need to tap the “Stop” button to start the service …

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… and once it’s active, as above, you need to tap “Active” to turn it off.

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Entering the web address into your browser brings up the WFT interface, defaulting to the main sdcard directory. Here, you can delete/rename directories (with caution!). Click on a directory folder name …

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.. and see all the files and subdirectories within that directory folder, with delete/rename options as well. Here’s the directory with shapefiles used in yesterday’s review of the shapefile viewer SHP Viewer. To download a file from this directory to your computer, just click on it, and it will be download to your default download destination. Right-clicking, and choosing “Save link as” … will *not* work here, so there’s no easy way to specify an alternate download destination.

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To upload a file from your computer to your Android, navigate to the destination directory on your Android, then click the “Upload” button at the bottom of the page to select the file on your computer you want to send to the Android. One huge drawback: only one file can be uploaded at a time. So if you have many files, it would probably be faster to use a different wireless solution, or connect your Android via a USB cable and put it in USB Mass Storage mode to access directories using the File Explorer. The “Install” button lets you select a “.apk” program file on your computer, and have it install on your phone; useful for those programs that aren’t available on the Android Market (but watch out for potentially hazardous apps that may install viruses, or compromise your phone’s security).

Other issues: Upload/download speed will be determined by your wireless network’s limitations. On a good 802.11g network, transfer speeds should be fast enough for most files. If the files are really large, unless you have a phone and network that supports the faster 802.11n standard, you’d probably be better off again connecting the phone via a USB cable.

There is a free “Pro” version of Wireless File Transfer that adds file and app management functionality, but I find other apps more useful for that, and it just complicates the interface. Another, similar app is File Expert, which on paper is superior – it offers file management, a web-based interface, a built-in FTP server, connections to network storage devices, and much more. But the interface is more challenging, and it had an annoying tendency to freeze up or force-close on a regular basis. Try it if you like, but Wireless File Transfer offers a simpler interface without complications.

Final thoughts: For large files, or large numbers of files, you’ll probably want to explore other options. But for simple upload/download of a few files from your Android phone, Wireless File Transfer Lite is fast, simple and easy. Highly recommended, especially at the “price”.